Grüner Veltliner Smaragd, Steinwand

Wine writer Oz Clarke says this:
Every year the Gruner Veltliner grape proves its versatility…the Kollmitz vineyard is high and sloping, steeping down towards the Danube, and it produces a unique white. The texture is as soft as souffle or ile flottante, dotted with salted Devon butter; a touch of pepper and spritz break up this mild yeasty cake, and you realise there’s a nip of bitterness in the wine, a bitterness like guava pips, or the pips of pears, which only underscores the smooth, cool fruit of slightly underripe pears and chilled white melon that makes this such a high quality glugger. Oz’s no.22 best wine in 2010
Smaragd-graded wines – named after the small emerald lizards often found between the vines – are richer, more full-bodied and have great ageing potential. Award winner.